Okay, just to clarify here...

Your general hardness (GH) is just fine, moderate to hard, 180 ppm. This will be good for most types of plants, especially the commonly available low-maintenance varieties that do so well in el natural setups. Dolomite/lime is not necessary (it boosts both GH and KH).

Your carbonate hardness (KH) is too low. Yes, there may be some folks who can get away with it. But if low tech, low maintenance is what you're after, then you should raise it. Baking soda is probably the easiest way. I've found that about 1 teaspoon of Arm and Hammer per 10 gallons will raise KH by about 5.25 degrees. (Disclaimer: you should verify this yourself on your own setup.) I would keep KH at at least 3 degrees, 6 degrees probably wouldn't hurt as long as pH isn't too high. As I said above, you don't need to add dolomite/lime, since that will also raise GH, which for you is plenty high.

KH is important for keeping pH stable against the day/night swings due to photosynthesis/respiration CO2 uptake/release. It is also an important carbon source for some common plant varieties such as vallisneria, which can use carbonates in lieu of CO2 for photosynthesis. In other words, it may help some of your plants grow more vigorously (which generally translates into good aquarium health and lower maintenance). You will read all about this in Diana's great book.

Like many nutrients, KH can get depleted, for example by plants that use it as a carbon source. Therefore, you should monitor your water GH and KH regularly in the first month (like once or twice a week). If you see any declines in KH, just add a bit more baking soda to bring it back in line. If GH starts to drop, you could add dolomite to the filter, or do a partial water change (since your tapwater has high GH) or you can use a commercial product that the high-tech folks use. For example Seachem Equilibrium is a no-brainer way to boost GH and is readily available. But I doubt you'll have any problems with GH dropping. I would just keep an eye on KH for the first month, then if it's fine, maybe check it once a month.

One other thing: Are you sure your test kits are working? I have had problems before with the kinds where you add drops, but the quick dip strips seem to work better for me. Always something to consider.

 

You have just said exactly what I was looking for. Not that I was doubting the baking soda method, just wondering if there was a long term solution. I am completely content adding baking soda. THANK YOU!
rhinoman turned me on to research baking soda. (credit where credit is due)

I was using the liquid tests, but they are very old, so I bought the quick dip sticks, and logging when I do my tests. (test bowl, tank, tap) They would be easier for my wife too, with a 1.5yr old running around like crazy.

I would hate to set this up, read the book and realize I should have done something, and have to jerry rig something or redo something. I may just get the digital version, since I would have to order it through Barnes & Noble.

Once again, APC has been an amazing resource for help and knowledge. How could I ever go anywhere else!? :mrgreen:
Thank you littleguy!! rayer:

 

Oh yes, I forgot to ask. Is it a must that when adding the baking soda to mix it in with a lot of water, or can I just mix it with a few cups of water and add it to the tank? Since I shouldn't be doing that many water changes.

 

It dissolves pretty easily either way (much like salt). It may be easiest just to take a cup of treated water (or old aquarium water) and mix it in there first, then add slowly back to the tank.

Remember that if you're talking about an established tank with fish and plants already in there, you probably shouldn't raise the GH or KH too quickly (maybe 1 degree a day ?) so as not to stress the critters. Otherwise if you're setting up a fresh tank, of course you can change to KH/GH to your liking all at once.

 

Here's a calculator you can use to figure out how much baking soda you'll need:
Buffering capacity and pH

predissolve and make sure it disperses well.

You could add crushed coral or crushed oystershell to your substrate.

 

Doesn't coral or oystershell also raise my hardness? I had read about adding those in another thread. I hope not to do many water changes.

BTW, my Ecology of the Planted Aquarium will be in, in 3-5 days!!!

 

Betty - That website rocks!!! I guess that's why you're the data guru .

Rohape - After looking at Betty's page I see I made a math error in the calculation I stated earlier (I just edited the previous post) - my test kits were too insensitive to alert me to the error. Luckily I'm still waiting to set up my new tank...

 

ok, so I'm looking around at coral and such to mix with the soil. I keep seeing all this Aragonite stuff. Should I be looking for strictly coral, or is the Argonite pretty much the same? I was going to add probably about 5-8lbs to my soil.
Should I mix the coral with the soil, or gravel?

 

Aragonite dissolves at a slightly lower pH so Marine tanks often use Aragonite in calcium reactors rather than Coral gravel. In a freshwater tank either should work fine. I used to use Coral Gravel in my Tanganyikan Tanks to buffer the RO water to pH 8.

 

How much did you use to raise it all the way to 8.0? I would like to keep my PH somewhat neutral, so I would probably just use less.

 

I added Coral gravel to the External filter in one tank (I filled a section of the housing) and in all my tanks I added Coral sand to the silica sand at about 10% coral sand to 90% silica.

I have to say that I would add a piece of coral gravel to some of your water in a container (say 5 litres) and see the effect. Multiply this up for the size of your tank. E.g. if one peice of Coral gravel ups the KH by 5dKH in 5litres, if your tank is 100litres and you want 5dKH rise, then add 20 pieces of coral gravel and see how that goes. You'll have to monitor carefully.

I also have to say that I run all my tanks now, including planted ones with CO2 added at 0dKH and haven't had any problems for over 5 years now. These tanks contain softwater amazonian and west african fish.